Lhostse Expedition 8516m

Days 1-4: Travel and Kathmandu - Arrival in Kathmandu, passport collection for permits, and gear check. Participants can purchase additional equipment in Thamel.

Days 5-15: Trek to Base Camp and Acclimatization -

• A scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla, followed by a trek to Phakding (Day 5) and then a steep climb to Namche Bazar, the capital of the Sherpa country (Day 6).
• A dedicated acclimatization day in Namche Bazar, with options to visit the Everest museum or a gompa (monastery).
• The trek continues through various villages like Thame, Marulung, Langden, and Gokyo, crossing high passes like Renjo La (5365 m).
• Further trekking leads through Dragnag and across the Cho La (5420 m) to Dzongla, eventually reaching Lobuche.
• The journey culminates in a trek from Lobuche to the Everest Base Camp (5364 m), situated at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall.
• A full day of acclimatization is spent at Base Camp, including a traditional Buddhist "Puja" ceremony
• To enhance acclimatization and avoid unnecessary trips into the Khumbu Icefall, an ascent of Lobuche Peak (6119 m) is offered as an option. This four-day round trip from Base Camp helps test physical form and practice fixed rope techniques.

Days 20-53: Lhotse Ascent - This period is dedicated to the climb itself, which involves a series of rotations between camps for acclimatization and summit attempts.

• Camp 1 (C1: 5900/6000 m): The most technical part, requiring crossing the moving Khumbu Icefall. Fixed ropes are set by "Ice doctors." Stays are limited to two nights for acclimatization.
• Camp 2 (C2: 6400/6500 m): Located at the foot of the west ridge in the west cwm, it serves as an advanced base camp with kitchen and mess tents for optimal comfort. Multiple nights are spent here before moving to higher camps.
• Camp 3 (C3: 7100/7300 m): A long, arduous ascent from C2 with slopes between 30 and 45 degrees, often on hard or icy snow, requiring fixed ropes. Two nights are typically spent here. Oxygen is used at night from Camp 3 (around 7300 meters) at a low flow rate for better sleep.
• Camp 4 (C4: 7500 m): Located below the South Col.. The route separates from Everest's itinerary here, leading towards the Lhotse face.
• Lhotse Summit (8516 m): The summit push begins from C4, using oxygen from the start at maximum flow rate to make the effort more bearable. The climb involves reaching the base of the "Reiss" couloir, which is 4 to 6 meters wide and steepens to 60 degrees near the top, also equipped with fixed ropes. The expedition estimates six days from Base Camp to the summit for a summit attempt.

Days 54-60: Return Journey and Departure - The return trek takes participants from Base Camp back through Lobuche, Dingboche, Namche Bazar, and Lukla. A flight from Lukla brings them back to Kathmandu for a free day before international flights back to Europe.

Logistics and Support Alpinist club Team focuses on small teams to ensure optimal conditions.

• Guides and Sherpas: A ratio of one experienced high-altitude Sherpa per participant is provided. This Sherpa accompanies the participant during key moments of the ascent, especially the summit push, and assists with carrying gear to set up camps. They are experienced in high altitude and fluent in English. A summit bonus of US$1,000 for the high-altitude Sherpa is to be paid on site after the ascent, regardless of whether the summit is reached.
• Expedition Leader: For groups of 1 to 5 participants, a local Nepalese English-speaking expedition leader is provided and may be shared with other expeditions. For groups of 6 or more, a dedicated experienced expedition leader is provided. The expedition leader, primarily based at Base Camp, determines the strategy for success, including rotations, acclimatization, and optimal summit push timing based on weather bulletins. Their authority is paramount for safety.
• Local Team: A Base Camp manager and kitchen team are present at Base Camp, with a cook also stationed at Camp 2. Porters assist in setting up Base Camp. High-altitude Sherpas take over from Base Camp for camp setup and carrying collective and personal equipment. Participants are responsible for carrying their personal belongings and high-altitude food (backpacks calibrated to 10-12 kg), while collective gear is transported by the Nepalese team.
• Medical and Weather Support: Access to an experienced weather router and a high-altitude medical specialist from Ifremmont is provided, including a 24/7 medical service during the expedition.
• Oxygen: Four bottles of oxygen with masks and regulators are provided per participant, and three per high-altitude guide. Oxygen is used at night from Camp 3 and at maximum flow during the summit push. Additional oxygen bottles cost approximately US$500.

Camps and Facilities:

in Kathmandu, accommodation is in 3/4* hotels with individual rooms.

• During the trek, accommodation is in individual tents or lodges, which vary in comfort. Lodges typically offer double, triple, or dormitory rooms with shared toilets and showers
• At Base Camp, each participant has a comfortable individual tent with a mattress, pillow, and solar lamp. A heated mess tent serves as the main living area with tables and chairs. Shower and WC tents (with waste removal) are also provided.
• At altitude camps, 2- or 3-person tents are used, with a kitchen and mess tent at Camp 2.
• Each tent at altitude is equipped with a stove (e.g., MSR Reactor) for melting snow to prepare hot drinks and dehydrated meals, with gas cartridges provided.

Meals: Welcome and farewell dinners are provided in Kathmandu. During the trek, full board is provided, with meals prepared by the lodge's kitchen team. At Base Camp, meals are prepared from local ingredients. At altitude camps, dehydrated meals are common, and participants can bring their preferred items. Proper hydration is emphasized, and participants are advised to bring water purification tablets and mineral salt tablets.

Challenges and Safety Climbing an 8000-meter peak is an exceptional adventure, no longer exclusively for an elite, due to advancements in logistics, equipment, weather forecasting, and physical preparedness of mountaineers. However, it remains a difficult and potentially dangerous undertaking, requiring total commitment, lucidity, and humility in a hostile natural environment.

High Altitude: The primary challenge is the extreme altitude and oxygen rarefaction (hypoxia). Each person reacts differently, and acclimatization is crucial. Symptoms like headaches and nausea are common but should not be ignored to prevent edematous processes. Above 8000 meters, the body experiences rapid deterioration, leading to loss of sleep, appetite, apathy, and hallucinations. It's crucial to descend promptly, as lingering at extreme altitudes can be fatal.

Preparation: A rigorous preparation spanning over a year is essential, focusing on physical, mental, and technical aspects. Training should be regular, starting at least 6-8 months before the expedition, focusing on endurance and resistance (running, cycling, swimming, ski touring, mountain courses). A mandatory preparation stage is required, and expedition participants are advised to have prior experience in high-altitude environments and be technically self-sufficient.

Medical Requirements: A hypoxic exercise medical test and a medical certificate for the Himalayan ascent are mandatory. A dental check-up is also strongly recommended before departure, particularly due to altitude and pressure changes.

Safety Rules: Key safety precautions include staying adequately warm/cool, covering the head, staying hydrated, having a hot meal daily, mutual supervision in high altitude, never descending alone, setting limits, recognizing warning signs (mirages, drowsiness, appetite loss), and not hesitating to turn back, regardless of external pressure.

Renunciation: It is explicitly stated that turning back is not a failure and can be a victory in itself. The forces of nature are exponentially stronger than human intelligence, and even the most meticulous preparation can be thwarted by adverse conditions. The motto is: "Dare to climb, know how to descend".

Teamwork: While an individual commitment, the expedition is a collective adventure emphasizing confidence, unity, serenity, and humility. Good humor, tolerance, and respect among group members and the local team are vital.

Important Note on Itinerary Flexibility: The itinerary, especially the climbing schedule, is subject to change due to weather, participant fitness, or unforeseen events (e.g., roadblocks, customs, or natural hazards). The expedition leader has full authority to adjust or interrupt the program to ensure safety. Any extra costs from changes, delays, or early returns are the responsibility of the participant.